• HVAC condensate: plugged drain, cracked pan, failed pump, or sweating uninsulated pipe
• Roof leak entering at a penetration, seam, or clogged roof drain during rain
• Domestic supply leak at a fitting, valve, flex connector, or fixture stop
• Drain or waste leak that only shows when the fixture above is used
• Fixture overflow or a failed flushometer or fill valve
• Water heater tank, relief valve, or connection leak
• Sprinkler or fire-protection piping (life safety: qualified contractor only)
• Groundwater or surface water intrusion at grade or below grade
• Failed exterior sealant, window, or door threshold

Bring these

• Wet/dry vacuum, mop, and absorbent material
• Buckets, plastic sheeting, and caution signs or cones
• Flashlight, moisture meter if available, and a camera
• Nitrile gloves and safety glasses
• Ladder rated for the work and a second person for the area below

Before touching anything

• Immediate safety check: is water near electrical equipment, lighting, or a panel? Is a ceiling sagging? Is the water clean, gray, or sewage? Any of those changes the response.
• Barricade the area and protect equipment, records, and inventory
• Locate the nearest accessible isolation valve before you open anything
• Note the time, weather, and whether HVAC is running

1. 1Make the area safeKeep people out, de-energize affected lighting or equipment through the proper procedure, and place containment. If electricity may be involved, stop and call an electrician.
2. 2Stop the source if you can do it safelyClose the fixture stop or the accessible branch valve. Do not shut a main or a fire-protection valve without authorization and notification.
3. 3Map the wet areaMark the extent of the water on the floor or ceiling and photograph it. Water travels along joists, conduit, and decking, so the origin is often uphill of the drip.
4. 4Test the weather-versus-equipment questionIf it only leaks during rain, treat it as building envelope. If it leaks whenever HVAC runs, treat it as condensate. If it is constant, treat it as pressurized supply piping.
5. 5Open the space above only when it is safeRemove a ceiling tile at the edge of the wet area with the area cleared below. Look for staining direction, rust trails, and dripping fittings.
6. 6Perform the routine fix or escalateClear condensate drains, tighten an accessible drain slip nut, or replace a supply-side component only if it is your authorized work. Anything pressurized, structural, or life-safety goes to a licensed trade.
7. 7Dry, document, and follow upExtract water, run air movers, and record what you found. Log ceiling and drywall damage for repair and reinspect in 24 hours for recurrence and mold risk.

• Clear an accessible condensate drain, pan, and trap
• Replace a failed condensate pump on non-regulated equipment
• Insulate a sweating cold-water or condensate line
• Tighten or reseal an accessible P-trap slip joint
• Clear a clogged roof drain strainer from a safe, authorized position
• Replace a failed flushometer or fill-valve component

• Replacing ceiling tile before the source is confirmed
• Assuming a roof leak during dry weather
• Working in standing water near powered equipment
• Shutting a fire-protection valve without authorization
• Skipping documentation the insurer or contractor will need